Posts

Showing posts from April, 2018

Feb/March recap

Image
Got out to Arch rock before the rain set in. Micah and I spent a day on Gripper, New Dimension (first pitch) and the UGSG wall. I think it gave me a sense of where I am (mid-5.10 climber) and where we need to be for A-Man. I arrived late the day before, mini-traxed on New Dimensions (thanks to whoever had the fixed lines up!). In case folks are wondering - the first pitch of New Dimensions is a great 5.10, and can be set up easily for TR (or mini-trax). There's a ledge you can walk out on. Tough guys. Looking up at the maw on Gripper. This is the classic 5.10 Yos is not 5.10 gym.  I need more days like this. Just lots of fun 5.10 climbing.  USGS is also a great spot. Rather than walk around, I jugged up the mini-trax line, set up the TR for both of us. 

The road to Astroman - Feb 3

Image
I wrote this on Feb 3, publishing now... I think I still have a copy of this photo from a Climbing magazine (published in the mid-90s). "This year things will be different." How often do you start off with that? What'll be different? I'll not freak out at the first sign of a crux move on some 11a fingers move? Not let work get in the way of the gym? Lose some weight? Well, those could be results. Here's the game plan: Making time to train: a minimum, every 2/3-weeks trip to Yos/Tahoe - climbing 5.10/5.11 granite pitches. Weekly training on the PG SV cracks. Stick to a 3 month training cycle, then rest.  Where I'm at now: Climbing 5.10d sport on-sight - lead Broken Arrow. Falling off 5.11 sport - fell off the Verdict. Climbing 5.11 gym stuff. Mediocre fitness - TODO: quantify. Riding bike to work 1x/week. 3 weeks of ARC based training Tue TR/Autobelay wall at work (ARC). Wed PG Belmont routes (not ARC, but leading a ton). Sat/Sun rec