Showing posts from May, 2017

North Buttress of Middle Cathedral Rock

The weekend of July 9, 2016 was unseasonably cool. Micah and I decided it would be perfect conditions for a trip up to the Valley. I had been up the DNB several times, but never up the North Buttress. Micah had not been on trad lead in months so the North Buttress seemed like a logical choice. At 5.10a route looked like the DNB's mellower cousin...

In reality the Direct North is really the DNB's grouchy, older-school sibling (if such a thing is possible).

We got started climbing about 8AM. The route starts a good 15 min walk from the DNB start.

The two routes are quite a bit different in character. North Buttress is rarely climbed, crosses a number of sketchy/loose sections, and has very little of the lower-angle slab (except for the very last pitch).

Here's the base:

I recall us using both the Reid and Sloan topos. Those are a bit vague/incorrect in spots. I later found the following topos (source). They are really accurate.

Pitch 1 is an intro of what's to come: fun …

Liberty Cap - "Oh No"

In the summer/fall of 1993 Frank Rodgers and I tried to climb a new route on the West Face of the Liberty Cap. We completed 4 pitches. So far the route goes free at 5.10 A0 R.


If anyone ever goes up there, it would be great if they could knock in another bolt or two on the second pitch. No need for another 5.10 R that nobody will climb.