The road to Astroman - Feb 3

I wrote this on Feb 3, publishing now...

I think I still have a copy of this photo from a Climbing magazine (published in the mid-90s).


"This year things will be different." How often do you start off with that? What'll be different? I'll not freak out at the first sign of a crux move on some 11a fingers move? Not let work get in the way of the gym? Lose some weight?

Well, those could be results. Here's the game plan:
  • Making time to train: a minimum, every 2/3-weeks trip to Yos/Tahoe - climbing 5.10/5.11 granite pitches.
  • Weekly training on the PG SV cracks.
  • Stick to a 3 month training cycle, then rest.
 Where I'm at now:
  • Climbing 5.10d sport on-sight - lead Broken Arrow.
  • Falling off 5.11 sport - fell off the Verdict.
  • Climbing 5.11 gym stuff.
  • Mediocre fitness - TODO: quantify.
  • Riding bike to work 1x/week.
  • 3 weeks of ARC based training
    • Tue TR/Autobelay wall at work (ARC).
    • Wed PG Belmont routes (not ARC, but leading a ton).
    • Sat/Sun rec climbing at gym - trying to lead 5.11d, getting airborne.
First granite training session of the year (Feb 3) - Arch Rock. 

Where I've been (2017 highlights):
  • Climbed SW Face of Liberty Cap - it was rad!
  • Fell off dyno move of Great Escape (valley 11a sport).
  • Fell off Gold Dust (10d trad).
  • Dealt with shoulder tendinitis from July - Nov.
  • Dec - followed Flying in the Mountains, lead last pitch.

About that PT rehab...

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